Kali.J DesignThe Toy Showroom · Guides
Condition Guide · Apparel

Clothing & Sneaker Condition

How to check clothing and sneakers for stains, holes, fading, cracking, pilling, stretching, sole wear, heel drag, creasing, yellowing and missing tags or boxes.

By Kali.J Design — The Toy Showroom, Upland, CA · Updated

The short answerFor clothing, read the tags first, then look for stains, holes, fading, pilling, stretching, cracked prints and alterations - held up to good light. For sneakers, turn them over: outsole wear and heel drag show real use, then check creasing, yellowing, sole separation, the size tag and the box.

Clothing

A green shirt from our inventory: its brand and size label, and a small hole near the hem circled
Read the label, then hunt for damage.Photo: our own inventory

Stains

What it is
Marks from food, sweat, makeup, rust, ink or storage.
How to spot it
Check collars, cuffs, underarms and the front in daylight.
Why it matters
Stains are the top reason clothing gets rejected. We cannot accept stained clothing.
What to photograph
Each stain close up.
When it becomes serious
Any stain in a visible area.

Holes

What it is
Moth holes, snags, pinholes, torn seams.
How to spot it
Hold the garment up to a light - holes and thin spots show through.
Why it matters
Small holes are easy to miss and disappointing for buyers.
What to photograph
Each hole, with a finger or ruler for scale.
When it becomes serious
Holes in the front or in seams that will keep opening.

Fading

What it is
Color lost from washing or sun.
How to spot it
Compare the outside with the inside of a seam or under the collar.
Why it matters
Some vintage buyers like natural fading; uneven fading looks damaged.
What to photograph
The faded area beside a protected area.
When it becomes serious
Blotchy or one-sided fading.

Cracking

What it is
Cracks in printed graphics.
How to spot it
Stretch the print gently and look for splits.
Why it matters
Cracked graphics are common on older shirts. Heavy cracking lowers appeal.
What to photograph
The graphic close up.
When it becomes serious
Missing chunks of the print.

Pilling

What it is
Small balls of fiber on the surface.
How to spot it
Under arms, sides and seat areas.
Why it matters
Makes the garment look worn.
What to photograph
The pilled area in side light.
When it becomes serious
Heavy pilling across the garment.

Stretching

What it is
Collars, cuffs and hems that have lost their shape.
How to spot it
Wavy necklines and loose cuffs.
Why it matters
Stretching cannot be fixed and changes fit.
What to photograph
The collar laid flat.
When it becomes serious
Obviously distorted shapes.

Alterations

What it is
Hemming, taking in, cropped or restitched areas.
How to spot it
Seams or stitching that do not match the rest of the garment.
Why it matters
Alterations change the size and must be disclosed.
What to photograph
The altered seam.
When it becomes serious
Undisclosed alterations.

Original tags

What it is
Retail hang tags still attached ("new with tags").
How to spot it
Check the tag is attached with its original fastener.
Why it matters
New with tags is a distinct and higher condition.
What to photograph
The tag front and back.
When it becomes serious
Only describe as "new with tags" if it truly is.

Size and material tags

What it is
The sewn-in labels showing brand, size, material and country of manufacture.
How to spot it
Neck label and side-seam care tag.
Why it matters
These identify the item and help catch mismatches. Missing or cut tags make identification harder.
What to photograph
Every label, readable.
When it becomes serious
Cut or missing size tags.

Odors

What it is
Smoke, perfume, mildew or storage smells.
How to spot it
Smell the garment, especially armpits and collar.
Why it matters
Odors are hard to remove and matter to buyers.
What to photograph
Note it in writing.
When it becomes serious
Smoke or mildew.
A grey t-shirt with a yellow-brown stain, and a denim jacket with a torn seam
Stains and tears are the flaws buyers notice first.Illustration: generated instructional image
A cracked printed graphic on a black shirt, and a knit sweater covered in pilling
Surface wear shows how much a piece was used.Illustration: generated instructional image
A black hoodie faded unevenly to grey-brown on the front
Patchy fading reads as damage.Illustration: generated instructional image

Sneakers

Illustrations of a white sneaker with a yellowed midsole and a sneaker outsole with the tread ground down at the heel
Turn both shoes over - the soles tell the truth.Illustration: generated instructional image

Outsole wear

What it is
Tread worn down on the bottom of the shoe.
How to spot it
Turn both shoes over and look at the forefoot and heel.
Why it matters
The most honest sign of how much a pair has been worn.
What to photograph
Both outsoles, flat-on.
When it becomes serious
Tread worn smooth in large areas.

Heel drag

What it is
Wear concentrated on the back edge of the heel.
How to spot it
The rear outer heel is ground flat or angled.
Why it matters
Shows heavy daily wear.
What to photograph
The heel close up.
When it becomes serious
When the wear reaches the midsole.

Creasing

What it is
Fold lines across the toe box from walking.
How to spot it
Look at the toe box from the side.
Why it matters
Deep creases are permanent and visible.
What to photograph
Both toe boxes from the side.
When it becomes serious
Cracked leather along the creases.

Sole separation

What it is
The sole coming unglued from the upper.
How to spot it
Press gently around the edge where the sole meets the upper.
Why it matters
A structural problem, not cosmetic.
What to photograph
Any gap, close up.
When it becomes serious
Any separation that opens when flexed.

Oxidation and yellowing

What it is
White rubber or translucent soles turning yellow with age.
How to spot it
Compare the sole color with the rest of the shoe in daylight. Some models are made with an intentionally off-white "vintage" sole, so check what the pair looked like new.
Why it matters
Unwanted yellowing makes a pair look older and more worn.
What to photograph
The sole in daylight.
When it becomes serious
Heavy yellowing on a model that should be white.

Box and accessories

What it is
The original box, lid, extra laces, tags and paper.
How to spot it
Check the box label matches the pair's size tag.
Why it matters
The original box adds appeal and helps identify the pair.
What to photograph
The box label and everything included.
When it becomes serious
A box that belongs to a different pair.

Odor

What it is
Wear odor or storage smell.
How to spot it
Smell the insoles.
Why it matters
Buyers notice immediately.
What to photograph
Note it in writing.
When it becomes serious
Strong odor.
A white sneaker with its sole peeling at the toe, and a sneaker with deep toe-box creases
Check structure first, then cosmetics.Illustration: generated instructional image
A sneaker size tag from our inventory with the size, style code and country of manufacture circled
Photograph this tag clearly on every pair.Photo: our own inventory

Common apparel mistakes

Sneaker & Apparel AuthenticityWhat to check on sneakers and designer clothing - labels, style codes, stitching, construction, materials and packaging - and when professional authentication makes sense.
What Kali.J Design BuysThe collectibles Kali.J Design - The Toy Showroom in Upland, CA buys and consigns, category by category: what we look for, what to photograph, and our current interest.
Is It Original? Authenticity ExplainedWhat original, reissue, reproduction, bootleg, counterfeit, aftermarket and restored actually mean for collectibles - and how each one affects identification and value.

Found something?

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